​Showcasing the potential of Mycelium Skins

In search of new materials that allow for greater sustainability and novel textures, researchers at VUB have been exploring mycelium as an alternative to traditional leather and its synthetic counterparts. ‘Fungal Skin: Macro’ is a jacket made from a mycelium material grown in the lab. This living textile—developed through advanced research and currently in the process of being patented—offers an ecologically and aesthetically unique alternative to synthetic leather, as it is 100% biobased and biodegradable.

Featuring a structure designed to respect the natural constraints of mycelium, the jacket is composed of modular panels joined with metallic rivets. These rivets enhance its noble yet raw aesthetic while making the design suitable for disassembly. The color gradient was obtained without the use of dye, showing the material’s additional commitment to sustainability, and the cotton lining provides comfort without compromising the piece’s ecological integrity.

In processing the material, VUB researcher Annah-Ololade reimagined traditional craftsmanship techniques through the innovative use of mycelium. By growing the mycelium skins, processing them, and adapting leatherwork techniques to them, Annah-Ololade fosters a dialogue between scientific innovation and traditional craftsmanship. Each informs the other, with the hands-on process of creation driving further research and discovery.

‘Fungal Skin: Macro’ is one of the rare sizable pieces made from large mycelium sheets, marking a crucial step towards upscaling this new technology.

Beyond the garment itself, this jacket tells a story, a journey from petri dish to wearable piece. Accompanying the jacket is a “making-of” video that captures the entire process, from growing the material in the lab to the final construction, offering a glimpse into the fusion of microbiology and design and propelling it into the realm of “more-than-human” design. ‘Fungal Skin: Macro’ challenges conventional notions of fashion production, urging us to rethink materials, consumption, and our connection to nature. By embracing the organic unpredictability of mycelium and the precision of design, this jacket embodies the future of sustainable fashion.